For courier and freight purposes your Windcheetah is supplied in a partially dismantled form and will need some final assembly before it can be ridden. Please read these instructions thoroughly before commencing assembly.
If you have ordered accessories then some of these may be fitted whilst others are supplied unassembled - so please examine the content of the box thoroughly. If any accessories require assembly then instructions will be included. Carefully unpack all components and, if using a sharp knife or scissors, please be very careful not to damage any components, particularly the frame. Before discarding any packaging please ensure no components are still within.
For the assembly you will need a ½ inch or 13mm socket and wrench (to fit the M8 nuts) an 8mm and 6mm hex key, and whilst not essential, a ½ inch or 13mm spanner will help.
The first and most difficult task is to carefully assemble the front wheel brake back plates into the trunnions. Please take care not to rotate the back plates on their track rod arms as this will affect the tracking which has been carefully set at the factory. (Please note that all Windcheetahs are fully assembled and test ridden prior to disassembly for shipping). Dealing with one back plate at a time, remove the kingpin from the back plate assembly by first removing the M8 nyloc nut from the underside (this should be hand tight only) and pulling the kingpin upwards. Note the location of the nylon thrust washer on the top of the back plate. Swing the back plate assembly into place between the arms of the trunnion and locate the thrust washer between the top of the back plate and the top arm of the trunnion. Locate the kingpin by passing it through the top arm of the trunnion, through the thrust washer, through the back plate and then screw it into the bottom arm of the trunnion. The kingpin should be gently tightened, making sure that the backplate is free to rotate in the trunnion. Please be careful not to over-tighten the kingpin as it is possible to over-clamp the back plate in the trunnion resulting in stiff or notchy steering. Once satisfied, secure the kingpin with the M8 nyloc nut provided. The extra spanner is useful here to prevent the kingpin turning whilst tightening the lock nut. Repeat the exercise with the remaining back plate.
Place front wheels on to the stub axles and secure with the M8 nyloc nut and washer provided. Squeeze brake lever firmly to centralise the brake shoes. Check both wheels rotate freely with no undue brake drag. Very small amounts of drag are normal due to the newness of the brakes and will clear after a few brake applications 'on the road'.
The rear wheel can be fitted next and is located onto the rear axle using a hexagonal drive shaft so care is needed to align the wheel correctly. Locate the rear wheel by gently pushing the hub onto the hexagonal drive shaft. This sometimes takes two or three attempts to get precise location due to the close tolerances of the fit so please try again if unsuccessful at the first attempt. Secure with the M6 allen bolt and washer provided, make sure the allen bolt is fitted using the 'Loctite thread lock' glue provided. Please note the 2007 specification Windcheetah uses an 8mm Nyloc nut to secure the wheel, obviously this doesn't need to be assembled with Loctite.
The Windcheetah may be shipped with the LH crank removed. If this is the case refit the crank referring to the relevant Shimano instruction sheet included with the bike.
Fit the pedals of your choice. We recommend clipless pedals or a clip and toe strap. On no account should the Windcheetah be ridden without some method of keeping your feet in place on the pedals.
Refit the derailleur arm to the tail piece using the two 5mm allen head screws, these should also be fixed using the Loctite adhesive provided.
If you have ordered any accessories then these should be fitted next. Please refer to any instructions provided.
Refit the rear seat support at the position indicated by the masking tape on the main frame tube. Do not tighten the two clamping screws at this stage, allow the support to find it's own position as the seat is fixed to it.
Remove the four M8 button screws and washers from the seat isolation rubbers and locate the seat in place. Adjust the rear support position if necessary to allow easy alignment of the holes It is easiest if the front is located first, followed by the rear. When you are happy with the position of the seat in relation to it's mountings, secure with the four M8 button screws and washers. Check that the rear seat support is vertical and located snugly on the main tube, then tighten the two clamping bolts. Place the seat cushion at the front and the longer back cushion behind up the curve of the seat. Both are fitted onto the long Velcro strip. Press the headrest into place onto the small patch of Velcro at the top of the seat.The Windcheetah is now ready to ride!
Your mudguards are supplied partly assembled with the stays already fitted to the mudguards.
Before work begins, support the Windcheetah by its frame and remove both front wheels. The mudguards can now be fitted.
Fit the aluminium 'L' brackets on the end of the stays to the backplate. The longer stay attaches by the hole in the front top corner of the backplate and the shorter stay by the hole in the 'tail' of the backplate behind the brake adjuster. Loosely tighten all four 5mm button head screws
Temporarily replace the wheels and align the mudguard to give sufficient clearance around the tyre. Secure each of the backplate bolts as firmly as possible, so as to prevent the stays from moving (we suggest using a threadlocking compound such as Loctite 243) Fine tuning of the mudguard position can be achieved by moving the plastic clamps that attach the mudguard blade to the stays. Do Not try to move the stays in the aluminium attachment blocks. These are bonded onto the stays and will become loose if attempts are made to alter their position. When you are happy with the mudguard position relative to the wheel, remove the wheel and Very Gently nip tight the small screws that attach the blade to the plastic clips. Note that these screws screw into a thread in the plastic and overtightening them will strip the thread or snap the clip. They only need to be tight enough to support the very light carbon fibre blade. Once this is done carefully tighten the nyloc nut by holding the screw head with an allen key. Again use only the most gentle pressure, this nut is only there to lock the screw against loosening by vibration whilst riding.
Once you are happy that the mudguards are as firmly attached as possible and do not move when knocked, the wheels can be refitted and their Nyloc nuts tightened. Do not over tighten, simply tighten the nut until you feel it stop against the wheel, then give one last very light 1/4 turn.
It is vitally important that the mudguards are not used as 'handles' when mounting the bike. They are designed to be lightweight spray guards for all weather riding ...NOT to support the riders weight!
Before fitting the Tail box, make sure that you are comfortable with the position of the seat on your Windcheetah. These instructions are for fitting a tail box that has been supplied with a new bike. If you are retro fitting a tailbox to a bike you already own you will need additional instructions on how to position the box and drill the seat to accept the four main mounting bolts.
A second pair of hands will make this simple job a lot easier Remove the lid from the rear box.
Remove the bolts and washers from the seat/box – please notice the position of the rubber and metal washers.
Put one fixing bolt through the top hole on the seat (metal washer front seat side) and push a rubber washer up to the back of the seat so that it rests against the carbon. Repeat this with the adjacent bolts.
Position the tail box until the bolts slide through the pre drilled holes. Make sure that there is a rubber washer in between the seat and the tail box on all fixing bolts.
With the tail box in place, you are now ready to fit the rear support strut. The fixing bolt that goes on the carbon lip of the tail box is in position on the strut. The carbon strut fixes to the tail casting on the frame see photo). On a Hypersport with the old design of tail casting there will be a carbon fibre angle bracket to attach to the circular boss on the rear of the casting using two 5mm allen screws, the bottom stay mounting bolt then attaches to this bracket. On the Clubsport and the current Hypersport the lower end of the support stay is attached to the 'tail' of the casting using a 6mm allen screw in the 'spare' hole just ahead of the derailleur mounting bolts. On some older Clubsports this hole may not be present. If it is not present then a 5mm hole should be drilled about 20mm in front of the derailleur arm mounting bolts, this should then be tapped with a 6mm thread. (If taps are not available it is OK to drill a 6mm hole and secure the bolt with a nyloc nut) Care should be taken when positioning this hole that the protruding end of the securing bolt will not foul the chain when running on the large sprocket.
Check the alignment of the wheel in the wheel well and adjust the position of the stay using spacers, or by swapping the mounting to the other side of the tail box lower flange, until the wheel is central in it's apperture.
Remove the wheel, it may be necessary to back off the barrel adjuster (pic a) on the cable to allow the hub to slide off the axle.
Remove the 10mm domed nut (pic b) that holds the brake operating arm to the pivot and remove the arm by inserting a small screwdriver between the arm and backplate to lever the arm off it's square mounting.
Remove the spring clip (pic c) from the static brake shoe pivot by flicking it off with a fine screwdriver or knife blade.
The brake shoes can now be pulled away from the backplate using a flat bladed screwdriver to ease them off the static pivot.
Rmove the flat washer from the actuating cam (pic d), clean and replace on the new cam.
Clean all brake dust and grease off the backplate making sure not to inhale any dust. Regrease the pivots with a high temp melting point grease such as Coppaslip.
The new brake shoes have a 8mm dome head screw inserted in the static pivot end (pic e), this is sacrificial and is only there to hold the shoes in place during the assembly process, Do not remove it prior to fitting. Place the thread end of this screw against the static pivot and the operating cam through it's hole in the backplate.
Using a suitable tube or socket over the dome head of the screw (pic f), tap the shoes down onto the static pivot, forcing the screw out from the shoes. Make sure the actuating cam slides cleanly into it's hole and the shoes remain parallel to the backplate while they are being tapped down.
Replace the spring clip on the static pivot, replace the wavy spring washer on the actuating cam pivot and replace the actuating lever and tighten the 10mm dome head nut to retain the lever.
Slacken the cable anchor screw (pic g) and allow the cable to pull through, screw the barrel adjuster fully up against the back plate (pic h).
Refit the wheel and adjust the cable using the cable anchor screw first then the barrel adjuster for final fine adjustment.
when you are satisfied that everything is adjusted and working correctly fit a new 13mm nyloc nut to hold the wheel on and tighten.
When both sets of shoes have been changed it will probably be necessary to adjust the brake balance so that both wheels are evenly braked when the lever is pulled. There is no trick to doing this just trial and error on a quiet stretch of road until the bike pulls up in a straight line without locking one wheel before the other.
We recommend that tracking is set between 1mm and 3mm of toe-in this will ensure that the steering has a good self centring action without excessive drag or wheel scrub. TIP; aim to get zero and be happy to get it as close to that measurement as possible, it's difficult to get it exactly on zero.
To set the toe-in the first job is to see what the machine's current set-up is....you never know your luck, it might be spot –on!
Lets assume it isn't......the best way to set the tracking is to remove the tyres. Measure the distance between the trailing edge of the two rims and make a note of the dimension. Call this dimension “A” Now measure the distance between the leading edge. Make a note of this and nominate it dimension 'B'.
If B is greater than A you have toe-out, if B is less than A you have toe in. Adjust the outer track rod ends either in or out to compensate. TIP One half turn of the outer track rod can mean the difference between the correct setting an an incorrect one.
When checking the measurement at the front and back it is advisable to put a marker on each rim and that you take the measurement at the same point. ie measure the front dimension and then rotate the wheel 180 degrees and use the same point on the rim to measure the rear. It is also very important to take the measurement at exactly the same height from the ground when measuring the front and rear dimension.
Once the tracking has been set check all the various fixings, clamps and fasteners on the machine, put 80psi in each tyre [up to 100psi if you want to go really quick and /or you weigh more than 12stone [168lb]. You are now ready to go out and enjoy yourself, before you do have a quick look at “Riding Tips” on the Windcheetah website, it will give some useful pointers before you start. Congratulations on completing your kit!
A Windcheetah is deceptively simple to ride, despite the unconventional appearance of the joystick steering. New riders very quickly become acclimatized to the techniques required. We have listed a few pointers to help you get an even more rewarding experience from your new purchase.
Getting in and preparing to set off
First of all make sure the parking brake is on and the joystick is resting in its forward position. Stand over the Windcheetah with both feet in front of the two cross arms. Pick up the joystick, hold the front brakes on and lower yourself into the bucket seat. Don't twist the joystick when the vehicle is stationary, this will prematurely wear the steering U.J. Clip your feet into the pedals, we strongly recommend that you use clipless pedals and appropriate footwear. Release the parking brake and off you go.
Use the front and rear mechs just as you would on any cycle. The joystick arrangement makes it very simple to brake and change gear at the same time.
Holding the joystick
Occasionally new riders report that they tend to weave slightly on their Windcheetah when riding very fast. This is caused by holding the joystick too tightly and the phenomenon disappears once the rider has had a few rides and becomes used to the machine. Windcheetahs are stable enough to be ridden hands-off with ease. When making turn signals the brake can be operated safely by either hand, a great advantage when making a turn across the traffic flow at the bottom of a descent.
It is important to transfer body weight to the inside of the bend during fast cornering manoeuvres. This is part of the fun of owning a Windcheetah and quickly becomes second nature. If you don't transfer weight the inside wheel can lift, this is easily corrected by leaning into the bend. Most riders do this naturally and the joystick steering makes this very simple. The 'stick moves with the rider ensuring that total control is maintained.
A good tip when cornering is to keep the inside leg out-stretched, this might be counter intuitive and may require some practice.
The Windcheetah can be stopped very quickly indeed if required, in fact it can lift the rear wheel in extreme circumstances! Excellent weight distribution and the very low centre of gravity gives superb stability even when the brakes are used to their full capability. Under normal conditions a light two-fingered touch is enough to handle most situations. Always use the park brake when leaving the machine anywhere, even on the flat a light wind is all that's needed to transform the carbon seat into a very effective sail.
All the wheels on the Windcheetah have cantilever [ single sided] axle mounts. This makes mending punctures a simple task; all that is required is a couple of tyre levers and a pump. Tyre pressure is a matter of personal choice, most riders opting for 100psi all round.
Lifting a Windcheetah
The best method is to stand on the left side of the machine, bend your knees and grasp the left cross arm with your left hand and the rear seat casting with the other. Lift up to chest height and hook the seat headrest over your right shoulder. The Windcheetah can then be safely manoeuvred through doors, up stairs etc. If you need to push the Windcheetah for any distance.don't! Pull it instead. Position the Windcheetah so it is facing backwards to the direction you wish to travel. Pick up the rear wheel at 12 o'clock with your right hand and proceed. The Windcheetah will follow you obediently wherever you want to go.
Transporting a Windcheetah
The Windcheetah will fit into most hatchback cars with the rear seat folded. The Windcheetah seat will need to be removed [ takes about 30 secs] and its best to tilt the machine over with the chainset resting between the two front seats. Certain estate cars [ station wagons] will swallow a Windcheetah whole. To carry on the roof simply fit two roof bars, position them so the Windcheetah's wheels sit either side, not on top of, the bar. The tyres won't damage the paintwork. Using some good old fashioned toe straps, secure the three wheels to the roof bars. Remove the seat if you intend to travel at speed.
This is debatable, to pack or not to pack.that is the question. I have ridden my Windcheetah to Manchester International Airport, turned the left crank back through 180degrees, secured the cranks to the frame with bubble wrap and tape and handed it in at the check-in. I've then flown to Brussels, ridden to my destination and returned back to Manchester the next day with the Windcheetah totally unscathed. I suspect that most baggage handlers aren't anarchists at all, and that most damage to luggage is caused by the mechanical handling equipment. A naked Windcheetah has to be handled by a human being and I suspect they respect it more than an anonymous cardboard box. When shipping new Windcheetahs we use lots of bubble wrap and triple layer export spec boxes. Make your choice.
Never tried it, but I would imagine it would fit in the cargo hold of some of the larger coaches. I've put a tandem in one once. Check with the bus company first of course.
I've put one in the luggage van on a Manchester to London Intercity without any problems. There was a nominal surcharge. For packing see 'By Plane'.